Tutorial
How to Count Rows in Crochet (Without Losing Your Place)
Counting crochet rows after the fact is genuinely hard, and no amount of skill makes it easy. Single crochet fabric compresses, colour changes hide row boundaries, and a project that has been in a bag for two weeks looks nothing like it did when you put it down.
So this guide covers two different things: how to read the rows in a finished piece of fabric when you need to, and — more usefully — how to set things up so you never have to.
Short answer
How do you count rows in crochet?
Lay the work flat and count the horizontal rows of stitches up one side, looking at the "V" shapes formed by the top of each stitch. Count the row currently on your hook as unfinished. For taller stitches like double crochet, each row is a distinct band, which makes counting easier than with single crochet. The reliable method is not to recount at all: place a locking stitch marker every ten rows as you go, and record the count in a row counter after every row.
Reading rows in the fabric
Every crochet stitch ends in two loops at the top that form a sideways "V". A row is the horizontal band of those V shapes. To count rows, lay the piece flat, pick one vertical column of stitches, and count the V shapes upward along it.
Taller stitches make this much easier. In double crochet, each row is an obvious band roughly the height of your stitch, and you can often count them at arm's length. In single crochet, the rows sit tightly on top of each other and you will need good light and patience — many crocheters count single crochet rows by the horizontal ridges on the back of the fabric instead.
- Count the row on your hook as in progress, not complete.
- Count along a single column, not diagonally — diagonal counting is where errors creep in.
- For textured or bobble stitches, count the pattern repeats and multiply by the rows per repeat instead of counting individual rows.
Does the turning chain count as a stitch?
This is the question behind most miscounts, and the answer is: it depends on the pattern, so check the pattern.
The common convention is that a turning chain for a taller stitch — three chains for double crochet, for instance — does count as the first stitch of the row, while the single chain used to turn before a row of single crochet does not. Many designers state their preference in the pattern notes. If yours does not, pick one convention and note it down, then apply it for the entire project. Consistency matters far more than which convention you picked: a piece counted one way throughout will be even, while a piece counted both ways will have a wobbling edge.
Working in rounds instead of rows
Amigurumi, hats and anything worked in a spiral have a specific failure mode: there is no visible seam telling you where a round begins.
The fix is mechanical. Put a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go. When the marker is in place, the count is unambiguous — you are on the round the marker sits in. Combine that with a round counter and a stitch counter for increases, and even a shaped amigurumi piece stays traceable.
For pieces joined with a slip stitch at the end of each round, the join itself forms a visible vertical seam you can count up. That is the one case where recounting later is genuinely reliable.
The setup that prevents recounting
Three habits eliminate almost all lost counts. None of them require anything clever.
First, mark every tenth row with a locking stitch marker as you work. Recounting then means counting markers and adding the remainder — a five-second job on a blanket instead of a twenty-minute one. Second, count as you finish a row, not as you start one; incrementing at the end means the number on your counter is always the number of completed rows. Third, write down the count before you put the work away, even for five minutes. Interruptions are what destroy counts, not long breaks.
- Locking stitch markers every 10 rows
- Increment the counter at the end of each row
- Note the count before setting the work down
- Keep a second counter for pattern repeats or increases
- For rounds, always mark the first stitch of the round
How to recover a count you have already lost
It happens. Work through it in this order.
Start with your row gauge: if the pattern says 14 rows per 10 cm, measure the length of the piece and multiply. That gives you a number accurate to within a row or two, which is often enough. Next, check the piece against the pattern for a structural landmark — the last increase row, the last colour change, the point where the shaping started — and count forward from there. Finally, if the piece is symmetrical, count the matching section instead: the first sleeve tells you the row count of the second.
If none of that works, accept an approximate count and mark the current row as your new zero. A consistent count from now on is worth more than a perfect count of the past, and for most projects nobody will ever be able to tell.
Frequently asked questions
Do you count the loop on the hook as a row?
No. The row you are currently working is not complete until you finish it, so count it as in progress. The standard convention is that your counter shows completed rows.
Does the turning chain count as a stitch in crochet?
It depends on the pattern and the stitch height. Conventionally a taller turning chain — such as three chains for double crochet — counts as the first stitch, while a single turning chain before single crochet does not. Check the pattern notes, and whichever convention you use, use it for the whole project.
How do I count rows in single crochet?
Single crochet rows sit tightly together, so counting the V shapes from the front is difficult. Turn the work over and count the horizontal ridges on the back instead, or count the rows in good raking light where the shadows separate them. Better: mark every tenth row while you work so you never need to.
How do I keep track of rounds in amigurumi?
Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up as you go, because a spiral has no visible seam to count. Pair that with a round counter and a separate counter for increases or decreases.
Should I count rows or measure length?
Both, for different things. Count rows for anything with shaping or a stitch pattern that must line up. Measure length for plain sections, and use your row gauge to convert between the two. Measuring is also the fastest way to reconstruct a count you have lost.